36V 48V 500W Brushless Motor Controller with LCD Display - Compatible with E-Bikes, Scooters, and Electric Go-Karts - Perfect for DIY Electric Vehicle Upgrades and Repairs

Settings & parameters.Totguard 26"x4" folding MTB. Came with a 15amp non-KT controller, 500w rear hub motor & 10ah battery.Scrapped all the electrical except for the battery and upgraded to a 22amp KT controller with waterproof connectors. The new controller doesn't fit where the old one was, so it sits in a waterproof bag under my seat.Worked out of the box, but I had to reverse the PAS parameter so I could use the left side sensor. Fine tuning the settings and reducing the power consumption to get the range close to where it was is taking a while and involves trial and error.Out of the box the stock settings were great and it made my motor feel like it had a lot more power than it did with the old 15amp controller. But the total range on a full charge was cut by about a third with those settings.So I've been playing with the settings so that it more closely mimics the settings from the old controller and my range has improved. But I'm still fine tuning things.The P3, C5 & C14 settings are quick ways to adjust power and performance.P3 settings: 0=Speed (normal Cadence Sensor setting) gave me 30-35 miles before wanting to power down. 1=Power ("Simulated" Torque Sensor setting) gave me 35-40 miles before the battery wanted to shut down. The "Power" setting allows me to stay in PAS 1 nearly the entire route, smoother peddling, less ghost peddling, reduced power consumption.My range / distance per charge riding the same route under the same conditions has definitely increased. I ride over mixed terrain of slow rolling hills, 80-90% paved roads & the rest on trails near a lake on a windy day. Not bad for a 10ah battery on a 26"x4" fat tire bike with knobby all terrain tires.These are my current settings:P1: 90 (motor characteristic) 1-255, from what I've read 80-100 works well for most 500w to 750w hub motors.P2: 1.P3: 1 (power=1 / speed=0) The power setting is much better than the speed setting.P4: 0 (zero start = 0 / non-zero start = 1) zero allows you to use throttle without peddling first.P5: 2 (smart battery display) to adjust accuracy of battery display. 48v battery between 15-20. A setting of 2 for "auto" on a 48v battery. *The 2 setting is pretty accurate on my battery, but I'm still seeing what setting works best.C1: 6 (power assist sensor) if PAS sensor is on left side of peddles use 5-7, if on the right use 0-2.C2: 0.C3: 8 (power assist startup) choose which PAS level to start out in, 8 will start on setting last used).C4: 0 (throttle function setting) zero start up throttle.C5: 7 (controller maximum current) set for slow start or reduce the % of power the controller puts out (10 is 100%, 0-2 are slow start then maximum).C6: 3 (display backlight brightness).C7: 0 (cruise control on/off).C8: 0C9: 0 (PASSWORD - DO NOT TOUCH, may Lock yourself out).C10: n (factory reset) reset all settings.C11: 0.C12: 4 (controller minimum voltage) 4 is "standard / default".C13: 0 (Regenerative breaking) only if motor supports it.C14: 2 (power assist tuning) 1-3 low, standard, high.C15: 6 (push assist speed) walk mode speed 4-6 km.